Heavy Lift Bar ?’s

[61pwcc]

Heavy Lift Bar ?’s

[Al Myers]

Way to notice things!!!

For years in the Neck Lift lifters added collars wider than the center sleeve to allow for wider foot placement. I made the pipe sleeves to serve the same purpose. There is not any rule violations stated in the rulebook where the plates are to be located on a bar, only “the plates must fit soundly on the bar as to not pose safety concerns when lifted.” You could do the same thing if you wanted to on a regular bar. And for some lifts this would help – I have noticed when doing the continental to belt if big bumper plates are put on the bar it gives the bar more bend (because more wt is out towards the ends) and it comes to the belt easier. So theres an idea! Instead of using bumpers – place the steel plates out farther!! As for the center board – it serves a couple of purposes. The board I made is a couple of 2x4s thick covered with a sheet of 3/4″ plywood. It gives better leverage by moving the bar closer to the feet, and it adds safety by keeping the insides of the plates from landing on the feet.

Thanks for these questions. The old adage about rules is true – “if its not disallowed in the rulebook then it’s allowed”. New rules come about when someone finds the “loopholes” that they use for their advantage. (Not that I have ever done that!!! haha) Al

[61pwcc]

A big thanks for clearing that up! What kind of stock do most use for the heavy lift bar? Randy said something about 10 45. Said that a little more carbon will make the bar stiffer and harder to bend. Thoughts??
Aside from leather, any ideas on what to make the hip/neck harness out of??

[Al Myers]

The stiffer the bar the better. Randy is right – high carbon steel has less deflection when placed under loading stresses. As for the harnesses – the hay baler belting is the best. It doesn’t stretch at all. They have it here in Kansas at most farm stores. Is there a tractor supply around you??? I made my new Hip Belt out of a tow strap that I doubled over and had sewn together. I really like it, and it doesn’t seem to stretch like I originally worried about. Frank Ciavattone had one like mine (he gave me the idea) and used it on Hip Lifts over 2000 pounds!!! Good luck. Al

[61pwcc]

excellent information!! Thanks a bunch

[61pwcc]

So, it looks like I’m getting cold drawn as opposed to hot rolled 1045 steel. What I’m a bit confused about is the rules state the bar must be a MINIMUM of 1 15/16″ diameter. Basically this is to ensure the bar is loaded with Olympic plates NOT exercise type(1″ diameter) plates AND to ensure the plates fit without much movement back and forth. Am I correct?

[Al Myers]

That’s correct!

[61pwcc]

Thanks. It looks like the shortest 1 15/16″ 1045 cold drawn steel bar available locally is 10′ for 225$.

[61pwcc]

Got my 1 15/16″ x 10′ Heavy Lift bar today. Cost me 200$. Thanks Stiman steel of Augusta,Me 207-622-8747, for any future Maine All-Rounders.
I’ve decided to leave the bar at 10′ for now unless… I run my own USAWA Heavy Lift meet.
For the sleeve it looks like I’ll need a piece of 2″ extra-strong pipe(schedule 80?).It has an inside diameter of 0.9730 just shy of 0.975(15/16). Hoping I’ll be able to get that little extra diameter on a lathe.
Machinist is suggesting a 5/8″ piece of cold rolled steel for the hook. What are you guys using for a hook diameter and length??
At York, I thought the bolts on the Heavy Lift bar went into the bar but they DO NOT…correct? The bolts just help keep the sleeve snug to the bar?
Thanks or any input.
Geesh, in two weeks I’ve gained a competition Weightlifting bar AND a Heavy Lift bar. Make the Neck Harness and Hip Lift and I’ll be in business.

[Author]

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